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Garage Talk

Snakebit Sam — Tue, 19 Mar 2013 14:07:33 +0000

5252: The Magic Number

Horsepower and torque explained

So you just did a bunch of high performance engine work to your ride and everybody wants to know how much horsepower your scooter’s got. Although it’s become the benchmark when people talk about how much power their bike makes, horsepower isn’t the whole story. In a dyno shootout, it’s the deciding factor, but in reality, that horsepower number doesn’t necessarily make one bike faster than the other. There are so many other variables that affect the ability of a motorcycle to be fast and they aren’t always taken into consideration. Although horsepower is a handy factor for comparison, it’s more of a mathematical by product than anything else.

Most people are so fixated on horsepower that they can’t see the forest for the trees. The truth is, horsepower can’t exist without torque and revolutions per minute (or RPMs.) To understand the relationship between the two, we should focus on torque first.

By definition, torque is the measure of a force’s tendency to produce torsion and rotation about an axis. When we measure this force for an internal combustion engine, we typically refer to it in ft./lbs. A foot-pound is equal to the twisting force that is exerted on an axis by one pound on a one-foot lever. So if you stand on a one foot breaker bar and you weigh 175 lbs, you have just delivered 175 ft./lbs. of torque to the bolt you’re trying to break loose. The problem is, the bolt is frozen and 175 lbs. isn’t enough force. Even though the bolt didn’t move, you delivered a measurable amount of torque.

Remember that torque has a “tendency” to produce rotation, but that doesn’t mean it always will. You can increase the torque by adding more weight and/or increasing the length of the lever. So now you get a guy named Moose and a three-foot breaker bar to deliver 900 ft./lbs. of torque and the bolt just snaps. Although you’ve delivered a significant amount of torque to the job, not even one horsepower was produced. How can that be? It will all make sense after you understand how horsepower is made.

Scottish engineer James Watt used horsepower as a way to compare the power produced by his steam engines to that of draft horses. He calculated that one horse could produce 33,000 ft./lbs. of work in one minute. The standard formula used to calculate mechanical horsepower in an engine is torque x RPM 5252. So horsepower is a measurement of torque and motion over time. When you’re talking in terms of your engine, that motion over time is measured in RPMs. So how come Moose didn’t make any ponies? Because the breaker bar never moved. No RPMs = no horsepower, just torque. But if the bolt had moved and Moose could have spun that breaker bar at 30 RPMs, he would have made 5.14 hp.

Because RPMs play such a large roll in producing that horsepower number, it’s very possible for one engine to have much higher horsepower than another without actually being more powerful or capable of doing the same amount of work.

When someone refers to an engine being a horsepower engine vs. a torque engine, what they’re saying is that a horsepower engine is one that makes more horsepower than torque (high RPMs) while a torque engine produces more torque than horsepower (low RPMs). The line where this crosses is that magic number: 5252 RPMs.

Let’s compare a horsepower engine to a torque engine by looking at a V-8 sports car engine and a diesel truck engine. The car engine makes 390 hp at 5500 RPM and 375 ft./lbs. of torque. The truck engine only makes 350 hp at 1850 RPMs but it’s capable of producing 1000 ft./lbs. of torque. If you revved the diesel up to the same number of RPMs as the car engine, it would make over 1000 hp! But you wouldn’t expect to swap motors and have the small block V-8 haul 100,000 lbs down the road at 70 mph. Nor would you expect the heavy, low revving diesel engine to pull the car down the quarter mile in 13 seconds.

Comparing the two is like comparing a gymnast to a power lifter. A gymnast (horsepower) can climb a ladder quicker than a power lifter (torque) but if you weighed them both down with 100 lbs. the gymnast would take significantly longer and the power lifter would get it done in about the same amount of time.

Now let’s get back to motorcycle engines. Let’s say a given V-twin makes 100 ft./lbs. of torque at 5252 RPMs, and 100 horsepower. If it could produce that torque at 10,504 RPMs (twice as high) the horsepower would be 200. Cut the RPM in half and the horsepower would be 50. No matter what the horsepower, the torque determines what it can move!

The bottom line? When you’re talking about moving a heavy American V-Twin down the road with a portly pilot and matching mate, you need torque and lots of it! Join us next time when we’ll take a look at some dyno charts and talk about what works on the street.

Dan Pike owns FTF Cycles in Randolph, MA and campaigns an XR1200 race bike. His tech columns also appear in The Motorcyclist’s Post.

BY DAN PIKE, FTF CYCLES

*RESOURCE
FTF Cycles • Randolph, MA
781-961-9100 • www.ftfcycles.com

IronWorks April 2013

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IronWorks Product Review: CV Carb Cap from LC Fabrications

Snakebit Sam — Thu, 07 Mar 2013 13:25:11 +0000

Harley-Davidsons are almost the perfect canvas for a two-wheeled gearhead to let his or her imagination run wild. From the post-war bobbers of the late ’40′s to the stretched and slammed baggers running amock these days, wrench slingers can’t seem to turn away from the steeds from Milwaukee. Sure, the factory puts out a decent motorcycle, but it’s the potential for individuality hidden within that drives the faithful to grind, weld and bolt until their sled has just the right look.

Which brings us to a common problem; for those of us still rocking mostly-stock frames and drivetrains, we’re limited to smaller scale modifications. If you’ve only got one ride, it can’t very well be in pieces in your garage for 3 years while you tinker with it. So we bolt on new pipes, chop our fenders, weld up little doodads and do what we can to make our bikes stand out.

We also bolt up air cleaners, a simple way to snag another horse or two and change the all-important right side view of your hog so everyone knows that you’re not just shuffling along on a stock bike. They look great, but as those of you with Evo XLs and Dynas might have noticed, they cause another problem. Check out this photo.

My retro-looking S&S air cleaner has done a great job of flowing air and looking slick, but it’s also putting my duck-ugly sun-faded crap-plastic dashpot cover on the top of my Keihin CV carb out there for everyone to see. Lame.

By the way, I still have the stock Keihin CV carb for a good reason: it’s free (came with the bike!), it’s easy to tune, it’s dead reliable, and it’s less finicky about altitude and temperature changes than…ahem, certain performance carbs that are commonly tacked onto Evos to sneak an extra horse or two onto the dyno sheet and subsequent bench racing bullshift session. Remember, gents: before you tack on that ultra-trick $450 piece of racing equipment, consider the more linear fueling and street-friendly torque curve that a simple $50 tuning kit might net you.

Climbing down off my soapbox and back to planet earth, I ran into Jeremy Cupp from LC Fabrications (www.lcfabrications.com) who had a clean-as-clorox solution in the form of his machined billet aluminum CV carb topper. Wait, I said that wrong. AMERICAN machined billet carb topper, thanks very much. Like all his other parts, Jeremy’s carb toppers are machined right in Grottoes, VA, which is in the United States of America, in case you didn’t pay attention in Geography. He makes similar carb toppers for modern and vintage Brit bikes, as well as some of those Yamahas that seem so popular for chopping and cafe racer-ing these days. Check out how nicely it’s added some unlikely flash to my otherwise shabby grocery-grabbing Sportster:

The contrast cut finish takes two separate machining processes to achieve, but the result speaks for itself. This little guy would blend right in with some of the newer contrast cut parts we’ve been seeing from Performance Machine and the like, for those of you interested in building a coherent look. They bolt up to stock CV carbs from early Evos up to late ones, both Big Twins and XLs. Installation was a 20 minute affair in the driveway, a simple matter of unbolting the carb and unscrewing the OEM carb top and throttle cable bracket (mind you don’t kink or bind those throttle cables, guys and girls.) Can’t help but be pleased; nothing makes me happier than throwing stock parts into the box under my workbench that’s reserved for that very purpose.

Make sure you check out Jeremy’s custom bike work and his other American-Made parts at www.lcfabrications.com .

Source and images: Vincent Stemp
Posted by Sam Kanish

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FTF-XR1200 Stage VI

Snakebit Sam — Tue, 06 Nov 2012 13:18:12 +0000

Thanks to unpredictable weather and the logistics of arranging track time, we’ve been on hiatus with our
XR1200 project for a bit; since last November’s issue, to be precise. But as promised, we’re back to wrap up the paint and finishing details of the build here, then we’ll prove the project’s worth on the asphalt at New Hampshire International Speedway. To recap, here’s a brief rundown of the changes we’ve made so far.

In the engine department, from Zipper’s Performance we’ve got a ThunderMax ECM, Redshift cams, adjustable pushrods, and pushrod tube kits. We’re breathing through a K&N high flow air filter and stock heads massaged by Buell Bros Racing. D&D provided the outlet with a Bobcat 2:1 exhaust with a custom baffle. Amsoil Synthetics are keeping the engine and trans well lubricated.

In the chassis department we’ve made quite a few improvements as well such as BST carbon fiber wheels from Brock’s Performance rolling on ceramic wheel bearings from World Wide Bearings and wrapped in Avon VP2 Extreme tires. The XR is suspended by Race Tech piggyback shocks in the rear and a Gold Valve emulator and fork spring kit in the front. Braking is courtesy of EBC double H brake pads all around and front floating rotors with a solid disc in the rear. Under foot we have rear sets from Gilles Tooling set up for GP shifting.

Safe to say we’ve taken all the necessary steps to improve the XR’s ability to accelerate, corner and stop. Now it’s time to give it an appearance that matches the sum of its parts.

We’re going for the stripped down road racer look so a fiberglass solo tail section and front fender were ordered from Adrenalin-Moto. As with any part that you’re going to paint, test fitting first is a good idea. The tail section bolts right on and accepts the stock seat. The front fender requires some fitting and drilling to let us get a snug fit on the smaller front wheel. A piece of 3⁄8” hose comes in handy for getting the fender in the right spot while leaving enough room for the tire to grow at high speed.

After the parts were removed, we headed over to H&H Graphix and paid a visit to painter Mark Heger. I explained to Mark that we wanted a unique look that wouldn’t divulge too far from the traditional XR appearance while still lending credit to all who participated in the project. We opted for a color scheme of black with white and blue graphics and a checker patterned racing stripe in its center, an IronWorks logo on the sides of the tank and the FTF winged logo on top. Mark went to work laying down the base coat, graphics and clear coat. After wet sanding and buffing, Mark brought the parts by the shop. He surprised us by using a pearl for the white and blue, giving the paint a great but subtle custom look.

We swapped out the original parts for the new pieces and tagged the bike up with racing stickers from all of the sponsors that have helped our XR project shine. Now that we’re looking good and standing tall, it’s time to take our XR to the proving grounds to see how our bike handles life at the track. In our next segment, we’ll race prep the bike and the rider and head to the historic New Hampshire International Speedway, current home of the oldest motorcycle race in North America, the 1.6 mile road course of the Loudon Classic. Stay tuned.

Story by Dan Pike, FTF Cycles

Photos by Bruce Wahl Photograhpy

Posted by Sam Kanish

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ECTA Speed Trials With S&S Cycle

Snakebit Sam — Fri, 26 Oct 2012 14:08:44 +0000

STORY AND PHOTOS BY WARNER RILEY

After a successful multiyear run of top speed racing at Maxton, North Carolina, the East Coast Timing Association (ECTA) relocated its operations for the 2012 season to an airport near Wilmington, Ohio, located Southeast of Dayton. The new facility is similar to Maxton in that it features a one-mile paved section in which to achieve your motorcycle’s top speed. The differences are that the track is straight (no slight curve near the start) and it’s much smoother than Maxton. I feel Wilmington is a big improvement over Maxton, and is a better place to do high speed runs. On June 2nd and 3rd, I traveled to the ECTA Wilmington speed trials in the company of Jeff Bailey and Gene Dlask from S&S Cycle with the goal being to assist Jeff in running his 1999 80-cubic-inch Buell.

(Editor’s Note: Tuner Mike Witt, IW’s Shop Time author and wrench from Chicago H-D, assisted in the Buell’s build and dyno testing. Mike travels with the team to Bonneville and will report on that event next time, putting our regular Shop Time story on hiatus till January.)

By the end of the weekend Jeff’s bike set three records and went as fast as 147.919 mph. We all thought the bike could have gone even faster (we really wanted a 150 mph run) but it was not to be. When the meet was delayed due to a rider running off the end of the track, we were unable to resolve a minor jetting issue in the remaining time available. We had the gearing worked out, but needed another run or two to really get the jetting just right. Here is a list of our runs and the changes that were made:

1.) 109.388 mph with a 74 main jet
and a 48-tooth rear sprocket.
The lack of airflow into the fuel tank (from
the inspector’s tape) caused the motor to
quit running part way through the run.
2.) 141.506 mph with a 74 main jet
and a 48-tooth rear sprocket.
3.) 143.527 mph with a 72 main jet
and a 48-tooth rear sprocket.
4.) 145.474 mph with a 74 main jet
and a 48-tooth rear sprocket.
5.) 144.161 mph with a 76 main jet
and a 46-tooth rear sprocket.
6.) 147.919 mph with a 74 main jet
and a 47-tooth rear sprocket.

Here is what Jeff Bailey had to say about how he approached the task of riding at speed: “I try to ride aggressively from the start. I do not launch like you would at the drag strip, more like aggressive street riding. It is important to fully rev out each gear to keep the rpm from dropping too far down the power curve when the shift is made. After that it’s all about making myself as small as possible on the bike and squeezing the bike with my knees, feet, elbows and chin. I have tried playing around with moving forward and back as well as rising up off of the seat. I have not been able to find a better position than just lifting off the seat a couple of inches.”

I would have to agree one hundred percent with Jeff’s comments. I always tried to ride “like I was paint” when I was doing top speed running at Bonneville. As this story was written, everyone was working on getting ready for Bonneville. The BUB Speed Trials run from August 25th through the 31st and Jeff was working hard to have a different bike, his 160 cubic inch S&S V-Twin, ready for the salt. Jeff will be in the record books—or not—by the time you read this. Warner Riley knows a thing or two about high-speed racing. He became a member of the Bonneville 200 MPH Club in 1971. He also worked on the Denis Manning/Harley-Davidson streamliner that Cal Rayborn rode to a land speed record of 265 MPH in 1970. In his racing career, Warner set a total of 24 records and clocked a best-ever speed of 212 mph—all on an Ironhead Sportster.

Specifications
● S&S Superstock 35⁄8” bore cases
with matching S&S cylinders,
35⁄8+.040” bore with stock 313⁄16”
stroke (1318cc/80.4”)
● Andrews V80 cams
Compression ratio: 11.3 to 1
● S&S Superstock heads with S&S
roller rocker arms
● S&S G carburetor with tear drop air
cleaner
● Stock Buell headpipe with handmade
megaphone muffler
● Stock H-D 5-speed trans with Baker
reverse pattern shift drum
● 38⁄56 primary (1.47 ratio)
● Primo heavy clutch spring with Alto
Carbonite plates
● 1999 Buell XL chassis with 4” extended
swingarm, stiffer front fork
springs and Custom Works rear shock
● Handmade low profile fuel tank
● EBC front brake rotor and pads
● Buell RR1000 custom front fender
from Tom “Santa Claus” Anderson
● Vortex clip-on handlebars

Jeff back at S&S doing dyno runs on Jim Fischer’s new 1650 cc Bonnevilleway. Quite a ride on pavement!

Jeff’s all-alloy S&S Cycle Sportster/Buell 4 cam displaces 1318 cc and runs in the open gas 1350 cc class. At 6800 rpm, it makes 104 HP at the rear wheel.

Posted by Sam Kanish

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New H-D LED Center Auxiliary Running/Brake Light Kit

Snakebit Sam — Fri, 30 Dec 2011 20:46:02 +0000

Harley-Davidson has added a new Center-Mount Auxiliary Running & Brake Light to its Parts & Accessories catalog. This brilliant red center-mount running and brake light fits 2010-later Street Glide and Road Glide Custom models. The LED lamp comes on when the ignition is on and gets brighter when you apply the brakes. It has a low-profile chrome shell that hugs the contour of the turn signal bar gives it a custom look and the plug-in connection makes it easy to install. Just ask your local H-D dealer for P/N 68000029 and the price is $99.95.

Source and image: Harley-Davidson
Posted by Sam Kanish

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Project FLHX BAKER, Rosa Cycles & Alloy ART

IWS — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 12:45:47 +0000

Whilst visiting the lovely state of Michigan last Spring with Meddling Editor Holdsworth, we had occasion to stop and spend time with Bert & Lisa Baker and their team of BAKER drivetrain magicians. During that conversation Bert foolishly made the offer: “if there is anything I can do to help, let me know…”. Ha, really?? Well I am not one to let an offer like that go untapped and so, the seeds for the drivetrain aspect of Project FLHX were planted, I was simply lacking a plan…..

to read the rest of the story, go get a copy of the JAN issue of IronWorks, lets get on it!

Images & words: stephen berner

[smugmug url="http://hattonbrown.smugmug.com/hack/feed.mg?Type=gallery&Data=14830097_7rYyN&format=rss200" imagecount="100" start="1" num="200" thumbsize="Th" link="lightbox" captions="false" sort="false" window="true" smugmug="false" size="M"]

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S&S Cycle Stock Replacement Parts Catalog

Snakebit Sam — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 15:00:31 +0000

S&S Cycle has introduced their brand new Stock Replacement Parts Catalog. That means if you need to fix your Harley the part you need might be in this book. Sure S&S is known for making parts to make your bike go-fast, but lots of their components can be used to replace the stock parts in your Harley. And you know S&S parts are of the highest quality. In fact the S&S parts might actually be better than the stock parts they replace. Now if you need engine parts for your hot rod bike, antique or that brand new 103” TC bagger you can probably find it at S&S. So the next time you need a part, check the S&S-to-stock cross reference chart in the back of the S&S Stock Replacement Parts Catalog to find an S&S part that will fit. The S&S Stock Replacement Parts Catalog is available to view or download at: www.sscycle.com/catalog/ .

Source: S&S Cycle
Posted by Sam Kanish

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Edge Saddlebag Bracket Installation Videos

Snakebit Sam — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:39:44 +0000

Thinking about adding some aftermarket bags to your bike? Edge Leather has a full line of bags and brackets that make installation a snap. Just about anyone with any mechanical skills can do it at home. Here’s couple videos to show you just how easy it is. Edge Leather products can be found at CAO Distributing: www.caodistributing.com or www.edgeleather.com .

www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CP_f3cTQeU
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBeJYNKjIkc&feature=related

Source: CAO Distributing

Posted by Sam Kanish

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Circulator Backrest Pads

Snakebit Sam — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 13:51:34 +0000

Tired of leaning up against that hot backrest? Here’s some relief for you. The new Circulator Backrest Pads from Harley-Davidson have 3D construction allowing air movement that reduces heat build-up where your body touches the backrest. The Circulator Pad reduces perspiration due to the body touching the seat. It can be installed and removed in seconds for easy cleaning. These pads resist fading when exposed to the sun and complement the existing Circulator Seat Pads for rider and passenger seats.

The pads are available in three sizes: the Wide; P/N 52300103, $59.95 and the Narrow; P/N 52300104, $59.95 are designed to fit over rider and passenger backrest pads. The Tour-Pak; P/N 52300105, $69.95 fits Tour-Pak passenger backrests. See your local Harley-Davidson dealer for more details.

Source and image: Harley-Davidson
Posted by Sam Kanish

The Wide pad

Tour-Pak backrest pad

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New Black Ice Wheels

Snakebit Sam — Mon, 01 Aug 2011 14:37:39 +0000

Black Ice is a new surface finish from Harley-Davidson being introduced on three custom wheel sets. Black Ice combines incredible depth with a highly reflective surface for a look that complements both chrome and black accessories, and many colors. Black Ice is not “black chrome”. Harley is introducing this treatment to the motorcycle public.

You can get Black Ice finished Roulette custom wheels; P/N 43300116 17-inch front, P/N 40900113 16-inch rear; $549.95 each and Agitator custom wheels P/N 43300115 19-inch front, P/N 40900112 18-inch rear; $749.95 each for select 2009-later Touring models. Black Ice is also available for V-Rod 5-Spoke wheels P/N 55083-11 19-inch front, 55082-11 18-inch rear; $649.95 each for the 2009-later V-Rod Muscle and 2012 Night Rod Special. For more info see your local Harley dealer.

Source and image: Harley-Davidson
Posted by Sam Kanish

Black Ice Roulette Wheel

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50-State Legal New Screamin’ Eagle Nightstick Dual Touring Mufflers

Snakebit Sam — Fri, 15 Jul 2011 14:00:46 +0000

Upgrade the sound and performance of your Touring or Trike model with a set of new Screamin’ Eagle Nightstick 2-into-2 Slip-On Mufflers from Harley-Davidson. These long and lean diffusion disc mufflers boost performance with enhanced air flow and back pressure while producing a pleasing, raspy tone. They fit 2010-later Touring and Trike models with dual exhaust and 2009 California Touring models. Available in chrome (P/N 64900093 Chrome, $499.95) or jet-black ceramic finish (64900091 Jet Black, $529.95), they can be easily installed on the original-equipment header pipe and muffler hanger with the separate purchase of muffler clamps. These Enviornmental Protection Agency (EPA) stamped mufflers are 50-state street legal when used with stock displacement engines. Available at your local Harley shop.

Source and image: Harley-Davidson
Posted by Sam Kanish

black Nightstick

chrome Nightstick

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New Low-Profile Oil Drain Pan From H-D

Snakebit Sam — Thu, 14 Jul 2011 13:15:52 +0000

This new Low-Profile Oil Drain Pan was designed specifically for use with Harley-Davidson motorcycles to help reduce the mess when changing your bike’s fluids. Its low-profile design allows it to fit under lowered motorcycles, or when on the bike is on its side stand. With a 10-quart capacity you can change oil twice or one complete fluids change (engine oil, primary and transmission) from your bike. Its large enough to hold and drain an inverted primary cover. The drain pan has convenient features like a raised hardware corral, a filtered drain surface and a pressure vent hole that prevents burps. The caps and plugs have gaskets which seals the drained oil inside the pan. A convenient carrying handle helps you carry the pan. Always take the used oil to an approved waste oil facility. The Low-Profile Oil Drain Pan (P/N 63795-10, $29.95) is available at your local H-D dealer.

Source and image: Harley-Davidson
Posted by Sam Kanish

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New Screamin’ Eagle Round Air Cleaner For 2007-later Sportsters

Snakebit Sam — Wed, 13 Jul 2011 13:15:29 +0000

You can add some performance and style to your 2007-later fuel-injected Sporty with the new Screamin’ Eagle Round Sportster Stage 1 Air Cleaner Kit from Harley-Davidson. Available in brilliant chrome or gloss black, this round air cleaner provides increased air flow to boost the power of fuel-injected Sportster models. It can be used with an accessory round cover or the open-element look with custom decorative air cleaner trim from one of the H-D’s collections. The kit includes a one-piece cast backplate, high-flow washable air filter element and all required hardware.

The Stage 1 Air Cleaner Kit (P/N 29000009 Gloss Black or 29000019 Chrome: $139.95) is street legal when used with stock mufflers. Labor and the required ECM calibration costs are not included. It also requires separate purchase of round air cleaner cover or Twin Cam-style air cleaner trim. See your local Harley-Davidson dealer for details.

Source and image: Harley-Davidson
Posted by Sam Kanish

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New H-D Screamin’ Eagle Super Octane Boost

Snakebit Sam — Tue, 12 Jul 2011 14:55:18 +0000

The new Screamin’ Eagle Super Octane Boost is ideal for use in areas where premium fuel is unavailable. Adding it to your fuel provides a 3 RON (Research Octane Number) boost to the posted pump gas octane. Using higher-octane gasoline can improve performance while reducing engine pinging and heat in higher-compression engines. Octane Boost is formulated with a powerful detergent that effectively cleans fuel injectors, carburetors, and intake valve and combustion chamber deposits in just one treatment. A single four-ounce bottle of Octane Boost treats one motorcycle tank of gas. Screamin’ Eagle Super Octane Boost is safe for use with catalyst and oxygen sensor equipped bikes and is the only octane additive tested and approved by Harley for use in their motorcycles. Screamin’ Eagle Super Octane Boost (P/N 94867-10, $4.95) is available at your local Harley-Davidson dealer.

Source and image: Harley-Davidson
Posted by Sam Kanish

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BAKER +1 Oil Pan

Snakebit Sam — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 15:37:53 +0000

You can reduce your engine oil temp by 10-30 degrees with the new BAKER +1 Oil Pan. The +1 Oil Pan is designed to hold an extra one quart of oil. which translates into a huge reduction in engine oil temperature. The longer and hotter the ride, the greater the temperature differential vs stock. The BAKER +1 Oil Pan comes in both 1-piece cast and 2-piece billet designs and fits 1993-2008 model year Fls.

When BAKER bought a new 2007 FL to use for 7-speed transmission development work. The first thing they, and everyone else, noticed was how hot the thing ran in traffic. The 4qt capacity seemed inadequate. So they designed a new pan in Solid Works with a 5 qt capacity by going wider not deeper, hence the +1 oil pan. The stock pan has the oil pickup and return within 2″ of each other in the front of the pan. Baker put the pickup in the rear of the +1 Oil Pan and the return in the front for better oil circulation.

To solve the problem of speed wobbles this pan works in conjunction with both types of stabilizers on the market. Two bosses were incorporated into the bottom so the heim joint of both types of stabilizers can be directly bolted to the oil pan. This tested out with both types, it really worked, no more speed wobble problems!

The BAKER 1 Oil Pans feature:
- Cast oil pans are 1-piece design and made with A356-T6 aluminum.
- Billet oil pans are 2-piece design and made with 6061-T6 aluminum.
- Stock pan feed and return lines are within 2″ of each other. BAKER pans feed in the back and return in the front for better oil circulation.
- Reduces engine oil temperature by 10-30 degrees. The longer and hotter the ride, the bigger the temperature differential as compared to stock.
- Multiple integral baffles eliminate the stock spring loaded baffle.
- Integral bosses for Alloy Art TXR and True Track stabilizers structurally located on the bottom.
- True bolt on part, no modifications required.
- Compatible with factory oil temperature sensor.

For more info www.bakerdrivetrain.com

Source and image: Baker Drivetrain
Post by Sam Kanish

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New Pullback Handlebar For Blackline

Snakebit Sam — Wed, 08 Jun 2011 13:09:54 +0000

The new Pullback Handlebar for Softail Blackline from Harley-Davidson brings the hand controls closer to the rider with four more inches of pullback than the original handlebars. These bars are not just for the vertically challenged rider, almost any size rider will get a more upright, relaxed position. These one-inch-diameter two-piece handlebars are finished in gloss black can be internally wired for a clean look. They are styled to match the aggressive stance of the Blackline motorcycle. The Blackline Pullback Handlebar P/N 55800032 ($219.95) fits 2011-later Blackline models. Required additional components must be purchased separately. See your local authorized Harley-Davidson dealer for fitment details.

Source: Harley-Davidson
Post by Sam Kanish

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New Easy-to-Use H-D Quick Wash Bike Cleaner

Snakebit Sam — Mon, 06 Jun 2011 16:12:59 +0000

The new Harley-Davison Quick Wash bike cleaner is safe for all kinds of surfaces on your motorcycle. Its tough on dirt, oil and bugs, but won’t strip off wax, corrode any fasteners or spokes, nor stain the leather or vinyl of your seat or saddlebags. Just spray it on and hose it off, no hard scrubbing plus it rinses clean without spotting. It comes in an easy-to-handle trigger pump 16-ounce bottle P/N 93600011, $7.95; or if you really like to clean, a 32-ounce bottle P/N 93600012, $14.95 and a convenient one-gallon refill container P/N 93600013, $39.95. The new Quick Wash bike cleaner is available at your local Harley-Davison dealer.

Source: Harley-Davidson
Post by Sam Kanish

32 oz bottle

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New Digital Gear Indicator From H-D

Snakebit Sam — Fri, 03 Jun 2011 15:22:50 +0000

Tired of guessing what gear you’re in? The new Harley-Davidson Digital Gear Indicator eliminates guesswork. Mounted on the handlebar for line-of-site viewing it is easy-to-read with a quick glance. The bright LED display indicates the current gear, or a large “N” when the transmission is in the neutral position. A built-in photocell automatically adjusts the brightness of the display. The kit comes complete with a self-contained LED and control module, control housing, wiring harness and required mounting hardware. With plug-and-play installation there’s no wire splicing or complicated programming. It fits most 2007-later Harley models, plus 2007-10 Softail models. It may not fit with some other accessories so see your local Harley-Davidson dealer for fitment details. Priced at $219.95 it is available in chrome (P/N 70900038) or satin black finish (P/N 70900078).

Source: Harley-Davidson
Post by Sam Kanish

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New Air Foil Premium Luggage Rack From H-D

Snakebit Sam — Thu, 02 Jun 2011 16:18:37 +0000

The new Harley-Davidson Air Foil Premium Luggage Rack has inlaid rubber runners for added grip. Dedicated bungee mounting points help to simplify tying down your stuff. Its elegant round tubes give it a low-profile, aerodynamic style and it features a die-cast rear air foil with a Bar & Shield logo insert. Available in chrome (P/N 54290-11) or gloss black (P/N 54291-11), the kit includes all necessary mounting hardware, $209.95. For added visibility, the rack is designed to incorporate the internal wiring of the Air Foil Rack LED Light Kit (P/N 68000009 Red, 68000010 Smoked; $44.95) Fits most non-touring models equipped with detachable or rigid-mount Sideplates. See your local H-D dealer for details.

Source: Harley-Davidson
Post by Sam Kanish

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New Boot Mark Remover From Harley-Davidson

Snakebit Sam — Wed, 01 Jun 2011 14:17:27 +0000

So your significant other rubbed their tennis shoe up against your hot pipe, even after you warned them, and now there’s that crappy black mark on the chrome right? Here’s what you can use to get that mark off. it’s the new Boot Mark Remover from Harley-Davidson. It’s formulated to break down rubber marks and road tar. When the exhaust is cool cover the marked area with the gel, scrub it, wipe away the residue and then rinse clean. Its not just for removing boot marks. It also takes care of asphalt resin, insects and plastic bags that get melted onto your exhaust. Just ask for P/N 93600001, $8.95 at your local dealer.
Source: Harley-Davidson
Post by Sam Kanish

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